The Santa Ynez Valley is Changing and it is Leaving Its Locals Behind

By Oliver Tensley

About the Author

My name is Oliver Tensley. My Dad, Joey, opened Tensley Wines in 1998 while working at Beckman Vineyards. He still owns it today. My Mom, Jennifer, co-owned it for 20 years. When my Mom was pregnant with me, they lived in the winery in Buellton which Tensley still operates out of today. They had to shower with a hose. Since then Tensley has become internationally renowned, the brand’s Colson Canyon Syrah was once awarded 17th best wine in the world, Tensley now operates out of two different wineries, and my childhood was more financially secure than that of either of my parents’. I am a beneficiary of how the Santa Ynez Valley has changed.

I make this point for transparency. It would be unfair of me to write all of this without noting that I would not be where I am today had it not been for Sideways and the changes that it induced.

I was born in 2003, and spent the majority of my life in Los Olivos. Sideways came out in 2004. Up until I moved to Los Angeles for college in 2021, I had lived the entirety of my life in one part of the Valley or another. Watching the ramifications of Sideways had been my life whether I realized it or not. This is why the bulk of the story focuses on Nathan Casey, Tino Diaz, and Henry Molina – they are all my personal friends and near my age. Generation Z, and especially those born in the immediate years before or after Sideways, have a unique perspective in the Santa Ynez Valley. We are too young to remember a fully pre-Sideways area, but also have memories of an area that feels different to the one we see now.

Watching Sideways today gives a strange feeling. As Miles and Jack walk under the A.J. Spurs sign I could swear everything looked the same in 2004 as it does in 2024. But, as they continue on Highway 246 shots are littered with nostalgic businesses that I forgot ever existed, others that I was too young to ever know were there. It is a snapshot into a world that the movie itself changed. 

My decision to write this story came last Winter. As I came home for Christmas, I noticed that R Country Market, a store in Los Olivos, had closed its doors. The store did not change ownership, and has since returned as Gandolfo Market, carrying the surname of its longtime owners. But, it was a telling change. I grew up in Los Olivos, when I was eight years old I lived about a quarter mile from “R Country,” as we called it. It was just a small town grocery store. My mom would let me buy a Gatorade there after school. Gandolfo Market sells Gatorade, but at a higher price in a much more high-end store. It’s a reasonable decision for the Gandolfo Family, rent is rising and if they wanted to keep their spot in the heart of Los Olivos something had to change. If anything, I am just happy for them that they figured out a way to make it happen. But, as a kid from Los Olivos it was a piece of my childhood gone before my eyes. That is the story of the modern Santa Ynez Valley.

The Santa Ynez Valley did not become expensive yesterday, it has been this way, only it is now increasing. Young residents of the roughly 18,000 person Valley have had to get creative finding things to do for years. But, now it is symbolically different. The prices have gotten out of control, the Valley’s main streets have never felt less made for its young people, non-locals move into houses locals could no longer afford, but residents still have their spots. The same tree that a high schooler used to hangout under off of Happy Canyon Road in 2018 is still there as they return from college, and it’s still their spot – still rural and unknown. For Nathan Casey that place is the ironically named, “Shithole’s Beach.”

Nathan Casey points to the Santa Ynez River in Solvang, Calif. Wednesday, Nov. 27, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)
Solvang banner hangs next to American flag in Solvang, Calif. Tuesday, Aug. 13, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)
Henry Molina stands in Hans Christian Andersen Park in Solvang, Calif. Wednesday, Nov. 27, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)
Juventino “Tino” Diaz smiles in Los Alamos Park in Los Alamos, Calif. Tuesday, Oct. 29, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)
Saarloos and Sons Vineyard near Los Olivos, Calif. Monday, Aug. 12, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)
Traffic under the windmill in Solvang, Calif. Tuesday, Aug. 13, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)
Buellton city limit sign above Highway 101 in Buellton, Calif. Tuesday, Aug. 13, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)
Overlook on Ballard Canyon Road in Los Olivos, Calif. Monday, Aug. 12, 2024. (Photo/Oliver Tensley)

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Los Angeles, CA 90045
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